Deep in the heart of Italy’s White City, Ostuni, a new retrospective exhibition celebrates the indelible legacy of Milanese fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri. A pivotal collaboration between the House of Lucie, the Lucie Awards, the Fondazione Gian Paolo Barbieri, and Milan’s 29 Arts In Progress gallery brings “Gian Paolo Barbieri: Beyond Fashion” to the public, running until August 31.
Barbieri, a master of his craft at 86 years old, has captured intimate and cultured images of supermodels like Veruschka, Naomi Campbell, Marpessa, and Eva Herzigova, along with actors such as Monica Bellucci, Mina, and Isabella Rossellini, often with a touch of irony. His work with iconic figures who defined their era, like Audrey Hepburn—whom he photographed for Vogue Italia in 1969—cements his status as one of the most influential fashion photographers.
Barbieri’s career took off after he opened his Milan studio in 1964, shortly after assisting mid-century fashion photographer Tom Kublin. His work, influenced by art history, exotic locations, and cinema, particularly from his early days at the Roman film studio Cinecittà, stands out for its studied and balanced use of lighting.
His captivating images have graced the pages of major publications, including Vogue Italia, Vogue Paris, Vogue America, L’Officiel, GQ, and Vanity Fair. He has also created provocative campaigns for major fashion houses such as Valentino, Gianni Versace, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Bulgari, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, and Vivienne Westwood. His work is part of collections at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, Vienna’s Kunstforum, the MAMM and Erarta Contemporary Art Museums in Russia, the Musée du quai Branly in Paris, and the Nicola Erni Collection in Switzerland. In June 2022, a documentary titled “The Man and the Beauty,” which chronicles Barbieri’s life and work, was released and won the audience award in the Biografilm Art & Music section of the Biografilm Festival in Bologna.
Barbieri received the Lucie Award for Best International Fashion Photographer (Outstanding Achievement in Fashion) in 2018. The Lucie Awards, founded by Hossein Farmani, celebrate the greatest achievements in photography with a biennial awards ceremony at Carnegie Hall in New York. The House of Lucie is a contemporary photography space dedicated to showcasing the extraordinary work of Lucie Awards honorees, including Barbieri.
The exhibition features a collection of masterworks and never-before-seen photos from Barbieri’s extensive archive, spanning from the 1960s to the early 2000s. Often adhering to a film noir lighting style, Barbieri’s work evolved to embrace a more technicolor, surrealist quality, and an innovative approach to set design and styling. His reputation stems not only from his unique perspective but also from his friendships with designers who were at the forefront of Italy’s transformation into a fashion capital, marking a revolutionary era for fashion.
For Barbieri, fashion without art is “naked and empty,” and his photography aimed to liberate the women he worked with from the traditional poses of fashion photography, showcasing a more nonchalant and sensual elegance.
With over 60 extraordinary years in the industry, defined by high fashion, cross-continental creations, and magnificent moments frozen in time, “Gian Paolo Barbieri: Beyond Fashion” is an exhibition not to be missed.
Visit the House of Lucie, Ostuni, Corso Garibaldi 16, Puglia, Italy, to experience this captivating display.
Top image: Tree Allen in Callaghan by Versace, Milano 1978. All photography by Gian Paolo Barbieri, courtesy of Fondazione Barbieri and 29 Arts In Progress Gallery Milan.
